„To Milano“ is written on the yellow road sign, and a cardboard announcement at the fence of a chicken farm promises „Polli freschi” – fresh poultry. A stooped woman carrying a watering can shuffles along the narrow cobbled alley towards her tiny garden. Geographically we are still in Valais, in Switzerland, but houses built of coarse stone blocs, crooked lanes and Italian names on the gravestones behind the church give Simplon Dorf the feel of Bella Italia.
The rich merchant Stockalper
From the Swiss town of Brig we have just hiked over the Simplon Pass to the southern side of the Alps. Although this trading route has been used since Roman times, it was not until the 17th century that Kaspar Jodok Stockalper, a merchant from Brig, developed it and started a prospering trade in salt and silk over the Alps.
Stockalper also launched a postal service by horse and shortened the delivery time of a letter from Geneve to Milano to only 8 days in summer, or 10 in winter. Originally from an already wealthy family, Stockalper became indecently rich over the years. To show off this affluence he built a sumptuous palace with an arcaded courtyard and three square towers topped by gilded onion domes in his home town Brig. His family became influential in regional politics for generations. Not everybody liked Stockalper’s grandeur, however, and his pious motto (which he had written on the wall of his dining room) did not help: „Sospes lucra carpat.“ The meaning of this anagram of Casparus Stockalper is “God’s favourite should skim the profits.”
Real village vs fake village
After two weeks in the German speaking Upper Valais (Oberwallis) we headed for the French speaking Lower Valais (Unterwallis) to visit a friend we had met in Uzbekistan last September. Nicole lives in Les Collons, a small village in the Val d’Hérence. “It is not a proper village” she explains, “Just a resort village: It doesn’t have a church.” And indeed, although Les Collons has three streets lined with chalets (named after their altitude Les Collons 1800, Les Collons 1850, and Les Collons 1900), it is strangely deserted in summer. “Only 50 people live here permanently,” Nicole tells us. From
her balcony we have a breathtaking vista over the Bernese Alps to the left and to the snow-capped Matterhorn to the right. On the opposite site of the valley we see several “real villages” with church towers glued to the steep slope of the
Halfway to France
“Pop! Pop!” Through the thin tent tarp we hear the soft noise of corks being pulled out of wine bottles. French (and French-speaking) campers meet all our expectations: Sitting in their flower print camping chairs they have lengthy four-course dinners accompanied by numerous glasses of the local wine.
Of course they brought porcelaine dishes and proper wine glasses. After all, wine has been grown in Valais for centuries. Poor farmers from these rugged valleys used to go abroad as mercenaries (the famous Swiss Guards in the Vatican are from Valais), and many brought home different kinds of grapevines to try on their local soil. Some of the vineyards are 1,000 metres above sea level, making them the highest ones in Europe. We especially liked the white flowery Fendant. Mostly, however, we stuck to the tasty Swiss tap water – we will soon enough be in regions again where potable water is rare. More Alps for now, but after the summer we will be off to Central America.