
The Watzmann mountain, which dominates the Berchtesgadener National Park, has long fascinated mountain climbers from all over the world. There are some spectacular climbing routes, such as the via ferrata along the ridge and the notorious climb through the Watzmann east face. But we have set our minds on hiking the Watzmann massif in four days.
On the first day we hike up to the Watzmann hut at 1930 m. The weather forecast predicted a fine and sunny day for the Watzmann massif area. But the next morning the fog does not lift although it is already well past sunrise. Reluctantly, most of the hikers start to leave for the mountain anyway. “The recruits left at 4, I think – they had torches, too,” someone remarks. We had shared the mountain hut with a whole company of mountain infantry in training, who were supposed to cross the rocky Watzmann ridge today with packs of 25 kg and more.

We too start our ascent to the smallest of the Watzmann peaks, the Hocheck, 600 m higher up. A handful of people in colourful outdoor gear get ready for the via ferrata across the ridge. Below us, there is nothing to see. A few raven dip into the chasm after a piece of bread, and beyond that, still the clouds. We turn round to walk down to the sunshine in the valleys.
The legend of the Watzmann massif
The Watzmann massif consists of a number of rugged peaks known as the Watzmann family. According to legend, the region was once ruled by the cruel King Waze who spread fear and terror throughout the land. When he once trampled a peasant family with his horse, the peasant woman asked the gods for punishment. And the gods promptly answered the call and turned Waze and his wife and five children into stone.
Recruits and families hiking the Watzmann massif
“I think apple juice is better – at least it’s something natural”. The next mountain hut is still at least an hour away, but the family passing us walking uphill is already discussing the snack options. “Servus” – “Hi” – “And now you also say ‘Hello’, Ella!,” the father admonishes.

Later that day, going around the mountain massif in a long loop, we meet some of the hikers who did the climb along the ridge. They are on their way out of the national park. “The soldiers were still at it this afternoon,” they complain. “Some were not really used to mountain paths at all, let alone a via ferrata. And with all that luggage!” We are glad we didn’t go for the via ferrata along the ridge.
The gate of the dying dog

The next day, we reach the so-called Hundstodgatterl (“Gate of the Dying Dog” – but no dead dog to be seen). We understand now why the area beyond is known as Steinernes Meer, which translates as “Sea of Stone”. Up to now we still saw patches of resilient grass between the rocks of the rugged terrain. However, as we continue along the trail, the landscape transformes dramatically. The path now meanders its way down through an expanse of grey stone and rocks. With dark clouds still above us, the only bits of colour are the red-and-white way-markers painted on the stones, and the moving blue or yellow dots of fellow hikers in the distance.
Only close to that day’s overnight stop at the Kärlinger Haus do we pass green meadows again. Fat marmots waddle about lazily, so certain that the hikers mean no harm that they don’t even bother to whistle.

The famous St Bartholmä church

By noon the next day we are back at Lake Königsee. At one of Bavaria’s tourist hot spots we mingle with the international crowds visiting the tiny, isolated baroque church of St. Bartholomä. And then we take the small boat that brings us back to the civilization. “Back in the 70s my first trip abroad took me to Norway”, the local boat conductor tells us in an adjusted Bavarian dialect. “To my surprise, there was a picture of St. Bartholomä on the wall of my room in Oslo. Back then, I realized, we are famous all over the world!”
Admittedly the Watzmann region is very touristy in summer, and we would have wished for better weather. Nevertheless, it was definitely a great hike. We will be back for the via ferrata over the Watzmann ridge! After all, it is one of the great and traditional via ferrata adventures in Germany – similar to the Hindelanger Via Ferrata which we have also done.
Information on hiking the Watzmann massif
The German Alpine Club has published a leaflet about the 4 day tour. An English version is available. Booking the mountain huts in advance is essential.
You can also read about our hiking trip around the Watzmann in German in the Lonely Planet book “Legendäre Wanderrouten in Deutschland” by MairDumont. The book describes 40 different hiking trips in Germany, of which we contributed five. (Another one is on the similarly fantastic Romantic Road.)
We were not sponsored in any way to write this blog post. We paid all expenses for the hiking tour ourselves.
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Every time I read one of your posts about hiking for days I am envious. We are well past the ability to do that and would look for small sections of routes in places like the Watzmann mountain to enjoy. It sounds like we could enjoy great spots like the baroque church of St Bartholoma without the full hike. Even if it might be busy at some times of year.
Dear Linda, the church of St Bartolomae would be perfect to get an impression of the Watzmann massif. The church is situated directly below the towering Watmann east face and only reachable by boat. So, yes I would recommend this to you, if you are in the area.
The Watzmann Massif is completely new to me and it’s interesting to read about its history and about the cruel king. I’m not the best hiker so I enjoyed hiking vicariously through your post! The church is remarkable and I can see why it’s a tourist hot spot in Bavaria. I must say it’s a beautiful part of the country.
This looks like such a neat place to explore. My daughter went to Europe over this past summer and we are trying to get there this summer as we are inspired by all the amazing destinations.
The beaver! How lucky are you?! So apart from the cute creature, I truly admire you for your strength to hike up such a majestic mountain. The views are so mesmerizing and I can only imagine what an empowering feeling it must be up there – like the Queens of the World 😉 I envy you a little bit your ability to go on these hikes 😉
Dear Renata, a marmot – not a beaver. But yes, they are so cute. And actually you will see them quite often in the mountains.
All those rocks! I would have to be really fit to do that hike. But imagine walking in the fog with 25kg packs, that would be some task. However, the views are awesome. I would love to take pictures of the marmots too. The baroque church of St. Bartholomä by the lakeside is very picturesque. Little wonder, this is a touristy spot.
Oh wow! That’s a long time to hike, but it looks like a lovely location to do so. I wonder how the dead dog area got its name, and like you, I’m glad that name isn’t true today. What a gorgeous place to be, especially with the lake and the church. I love Bavaria!
I am truly impressed with your hiking in the Watzmann Massif area. Four days of hiking sounds very challenging, especially a day or more of scrambling over mostly rocks! I can’t imagine how the infantryman crossed the mountains with 25 kg packs. Still, I can see the allure of this area, because the mountains are stunning, even when the skies are overcast. The beautiful, craggy tops are a sight to see! I would also enjoy seeing the St. Bartholomä church at Lake Königsee — the domes are very pretty.
Your hike across the Watzmann mountains over four days sounds amazing! Climbing to the Watzmann hut, even with the unexpected fog, adds an adventurous twist. I love hiking too, so reading about your journey, especially the mysterious foggy start and the legend of King Waze, really catches my interest. It’s cool how you met families and even soldiers training on the trail. This makes me want to add the Watzmann to my list of must-visit hiking spots!
Dear Ahnes, the European Alpes are one of my favorite hiking areas. There is so much to explore.
Interesting hike and read about the history of Walzmann Massif. The hike of four days is so challenging and adventurous! The craggy tops would be a great sight to see. The baroque church of St. Bartholomä looks awesome. I wish I could do this hike some day.
Dear Jan, you do not need a lot of experience for this hike, but you should be fit and not suffer from vertigo.
I have a friend visiting me at the moment and you just reminded me of Berchtesgaden with the pretty St Bartholoma . I have taken the ferry there but did not manage to go further, so I will be bringing her around to explore the region and then further to Salzburg. Thanks for the inspiration!
Dear Adele, st Barholomae is beautiful and I am sure your friend will enjoy a visit there. However I guess it is already too late in the year for serious hiking – there might be snow already. Definitely check the weather before heading out on the trails.
I love hiking but I usually limit myself when it comes to mountains. The most I do are moderate trails, with well determined paths. I don’t know if I would be fit enough for Watzmann, and that Gate of the Dying Dog, with all those rocks instead of a path. The experience sounds very exciting though, and I’m glad you didn’t do the via ferata in the fog. That would probably terrify me, haha. I would like to visit the area, and do some smaller, easier hikes around.
Dear Joanna, there are a lot of trails suited to all difficulty levels in the Watzmann area. I am sure you would find a nice hike if you are in the area.
From the legend of the Watzmann massif, I picture that the Watzmann offers challenging trails. My guess is that’s why it’s been chosen for a mountain infantry training field. The St. Bartholoma church looks beautiful sitting on the side of the lake. No wonder the boat conductor found the picture of it when he went to Oslo in the 70s.