The long-distance path Cami de Cavalls on Menorca (GR 223) is a beautiful trail that leads along the coast around the whole Island. The end of November with its still mild weather seems perfectly suited to hiking it, but stocking up on water and provisions turned out to be quite difficult.
The woman in a “Patisserie Something” T-Shirt walking her dog chuckles when we ask whether there is an open shop or bar in the village. She is only the third person we have seen today, it is already noon, our snacks are almost finished because we couldn’t find an open shop for the last two days, and we have almost crossed the village. We also urgently need to get some water. „Yes,“ the woman says and explains the way, delighting in our excitement. It turns out there are even three open bars next to the Hong Ye supermarket, and we eagerly treat ourselves to a coffee with milk, two bananas and chocolate cookies.
We started walking the Cami de Cavalls in Ciutadella on the Western coast, and as our first hiking days would lead us along the more touristy South coast with lots of beaches, scenic walks along the cliffs, and picturesque holiday settlements we expected to find an open corner shop at least once a day, and water outlets or bars to ask for water practically everywhere. But Hong Ye turns out to be the only supermarket we encounter until we arrive in Mao, Menorca’s administrative centre, after four days of hiking. Nearly every village we pass is a ghost village, the hotels closed, the holiday homes shuttered for winter, the toilets shut up, the beach showers turned off (we wouldn’t mind drinking water from the showers) and even the information boards are wrapped in black plastic foil. Every now and then we meet an angler, a mountain biker or someone house-sitting for the in-laws because it was broken in too often. Some of the hotels are being renovated over the winter, and we quickly find out that the builders usually know whether there’s an open bar around.
Having arrived in Mao for a mid-hike break, we figured that we have to prepare even better for the second part along the North coast, which is apparently much wilder and more rugged, with fewer villages, practically no bus connections and, presumably, no shop. And only very few houses to ask for water.
Besides these difficulties the Southern part of the Cami de Cavalls has been absolutely stunning, with steep cliffs, turquoise water and secluded beaches. And all people we spoke to (not too many, though) confirmed that the Northern part is even better. We will let you know.