Thoughts on hiking and travelling in the Aosta Valley

Sheep near the Rifugio Bonatti below the Grandes Jurasses mountains

The Aosta Valley is Italy’s tiniest region. Not many tourists have heard about it and even most Italians have never been there. Wedged between the Italian region of Piedmont, France and Switzerland it is also one of the most remote and unique parts of Italy. In the summer of 2022, we spent almost 3 weeks hiking and travelling in the Aosta Valley.

Our main motivation for the trip was hiking in the Alps: The Aosta Valley has amazing hiking possibilities. But we also managed to do some sightseeing in the main town of Aosta and of course we tasted a lot of regional delicacies.

Hiking in the Aosta Valley: Alta Via 1 and Gran Paradiso National Park

The hiking in the Aosta Valley was the highlight of our trip to the region. We did a 7-day long distance hike on the Alta Via 1 from Paquier to Courmayeur, staying in rustic mountain huts or on campsites along the way.

After a few days in Courmayeur, from where we did some day hikes, we moved to the Gran Paradiso National Park. The park is named after the Gran Paradiso Mountain. Rightly so, since it is the highest mountain (4061m) standing only on Italian territory. King Vittorio Emanuele II established a Royal Hunting reserve in 1856 in order to protect the ibex population there. After all, ibexes were almost extinct in the rest of Italy at that time. And in 1922 it became Italy’s first national park, with an ibex population of 3000.

It was a worthwhile move – today there are around 4000 ibexes living in the Gran Paradiso National Park. And yes, we did see an ibex on one of the several day hikes we did in the area. The Gran Paradiso Park is quite popular with Italian hikers. In fact, we met a lot of Italians travelling in the Aosta Valley primarily to hike the trails around Gran Paradiso.

Vegetarian food in the Aosta Valley

Everybody likes Italian food. But usually, you expect pizza and pasta. Travelling in the Aosta Valley, however, Italian food turns out different! And it is still perfect for vegetarian travellers. Due to the altitude and the remoteness of the region the eating habits are quite distinct from the rest of Italy. Polenta is the main source of carbohydrates and far more ubiquitous than pasta. One of the most popular ways to prepare it is with a lot of butter and Fontina cheese.

The Fontina cheese is another regional specialty. It is a slightly stinky, nutty-tasting yellow cheese made from cow’s milk. It originated in the Aosta Valley, but today Fontina cheese is produced in other parts of Italy too. To get the “Made in the Aosta Valley” label it must be made from unpasteurized milk from a single milking. There is also a fontina blue cheese on offer, and we had a tasty Polenta with blue cheese in a restaurant in the village of Valnontey.

Zuppa Valpellinese - an Aosta Valley speciality with Savoy cabbage and Fontina cheese

Another regional dish is the rich Zuppa Valpellinese. Luckily, we got to taste it during our hiking trip, as it is not usually on the menu in restaurants. We had no idea what to expect when new acquaintances from the campsite asked us to join their dinner. But we are vegetarians, we objected. The “zuppa” turned out to be a kind of bread and cabbage stew with lots of local Fontina cheese thrown in.

When we stumbled into a local festival in Étroubles, we could also try some typical local treats. After yet more cheese, we were delighted to have raspberries with whipped cream.

Signature drinks of the Aosta Valley

As you might have guessed, the regional kitchen is quite cheesy and heavy. Therefore, many people drink hard liquors after a meal to assist digestion. The spirit of choice on the mountain huts as well as in restaurants is Genepi. We found this strong herbal liquor a rather acquired taste.

Coffee valdostana, a local specialty in the Aosta Valley

And then there is the Caffé Valdostana, which we saw on menus but never noticed anyone drinking. It turned out that it is a typical drink in winter for skiers, snowboarders, and other winter sport enthusiasts. A strong black coffee is mixed with sugar, orange peel, lemon, and grappa and then flambeed. As if this kind of “mulled coffee” is not unique enough, you also drink it from a special ‘Friendship Cup”. This is a (traditionally hand-carved) wooden cup that resembles a teapot with several spouts. Usually you order the Café Valdostana for the whole group, and you get a cup with a number of spouts according to the number of group members. This way everyone is sharing just one “Friendship Cup”. We fortunately found a small café in Aosta where we could try this exotic drink in summer and in a small group consisting of only the two of us.

Languages spoken in the Aosta Valley

The Aosta Valley is officially bilingual. However, most people speak nothing but Italian. They might understand French, though. If you are travelling in the Aosta Valley and do not speak Italian, people in the tourism industry will automatically switch to French. There is a local dialect too, called Valdôtain. We once heard an old woman talking with the bus driver in this dialect (the bus driver answered in Italian). We speak only a little Italian but understand a bit more. At least our French is enough for simple conversations. Accordingly, communication was sometimes a bit tiresome, but the Italians were very, very patient and friendly with us.

Sightseeing in Aosta

Roman theater, one of the sightseeing highlights when travelling in the Aosta Valley

On a rainy day we went to the main town of the region, to Aosta, for some sightseeing. The area was a strategic crossing point during Roman times. Unsurprisingly, most of the sightseeing places are connected in one way or other to Roman times. The most impressive site is the reconstructed Roman Theater with a stunning mountain panorama back-drop. There is not much left of the skene, the high wall behind the stage that is characteristic for the Roman theaters, but parts of the semicircular grandstand are still in place.

We also enjoyed visiting the “Cryptoporticus” in the north of the Roman Forum in Aosta. These underground vaults were built during the reign of Roman Emperor Augustus. Allegedly the forum architects used the cellar rooms to level the slightly sloping ground for the large forum square. The underground chambers might have been in use as warehouses and military storage.

Main Square of Aosta Hauptplatz

The historical museum in Aosta gives a good overview of the history of the region starting from prehistoric times. But alas, most explanations are in Italian only – not so unusual in Italy, and even in Italian-speaking regions in Switzerland. In Bellinzona, for instance, we also experienced challenging museum labels only in Italian.

Should you travel in the Aosta Valley?

Hike to the Alpe Money in the Aosta Valley

If you like hiking and unusual places, the Aosta Valley might be your next travel destination. Unless you speak Italian, you might have some minor difficulties with the communication, but the friendly people, the delicious food and the spectacular nature more than make up for it. Like all of Italy, the Aosta Valley is perfect for vegetarian travellers but somewhat tricky for vegans.

More information on the Aosta Valley Tourism site.

Getting there and around

From Turin the “Aosta – Pont Saint Martin” railway line goes as far as Aosta. To go deeper into the mountains you have to switch to one of the numerous buses in the area. There are several companies that serve the Aosta Valley. Svap buses cover Aosta town and the Central Valley region while the Arriva buses go as far Courmayeur and to the Northern valleys. For timetables and ticket purchase you can use the Arriva app and the Moovit app.

We had no sponsoring for our hiking trip in the Aosta Valley and paid all expenses ourselves.

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  1. You’re right I haven’t heard of the tiniest region in Italy! Aosta Valley is definitely a hidden gem. I’ve longed to go to the Piedmont area and will have to keep this in mind. The mountains are spectacular, and it appears you ate well. Now you’ve piqued my interest to try Genepi, to see if I might like this herbal liquor.

  2. I would like hiking in this unheard place. It looks beautiful and peaceful, and who doesn’t want to seen an Ibex during a hike? The food looks and sounds delicious, too. My only problem will be the language, because I don’t speak Italian nor French.

    1. Dear Umiko, Italians do learn English in school. However, they don`t like to speak it. But if they have to, they will try. Just be prepared that conversations might be a little slow.

  3. I am not really familiar with the place as this is the first time I have heard about Aosta Valley. 🙂

    I would love to try their Fontina Cheese and all the local cuisines. I think this little town is charming. Thanks for the heads-up regarding the language. Will make sure to bring with my bestfriend who speaks Italian.

  4. This post feels like it was written just for me: scenic views and vegetarian Italian food? Exactly my style! I’m currently located in Italy and totally agree with your points about the warmness of the people and on and off English communication ability, but all in all I’m enjoying it so perhaps this should be the next stop on my trip!

  5. Italians are one of the warmest people I met during my travels. I can’t wait to finally travel to Italy soon. Thanks for sharing some hidden gems where not many tourists go to like Aosta Valley. It’s a bit of a fresh air compare to fashionable Milan or Venice. What interests me is the vegetarian food in the valley, as a foodie, can’t wait to do a food adventure there too 🙂

  6. I never heard of this place, or the foods you mention. Everything looks so lovely, love that it is a little off the beaten track without too many crowds.

  7. Your visit to the Aosta valley looks very inspiring. The scenic beauty of the place is amazing with a scope for visiting the Grand Paradise national park with a huge Ibex population and you were lucky to spot them. And you got to taste the local food like Zippo Valpellinese and polenta. And nice to know that it’s popularity for Fontina cheese. The recipe and ingredients for cafe Voldastana is interesting. There are so many ways we can make coffee. The Roman amphitheater with the mountain backdrop is amazing.

  8. I did not know about the highest mountain range until I read this article. Gran Paradiso mountain seems a good place for a good hike while also visiting the Gran Paradiso National Park. I have never heard about the Valdôtain language that is spoken in Aosta Valley. I found your article quite interesting and educational. You must be very tired after the long hike.

    1. Dear Pamela, if it is your first time in Italy it might be better to spend your time at the must-sees like Rome, Florence, Milano, Pisa etc. The Roman sites in Aosta are not that impressive to be honest. They make for a nice day of sightseeing, but the main reason you would visit the Aosta valley are the mountains.

  9. We are always looking for new spots to visit in Italy that are not big tourist spots. The Aosta Valley sounds like one to check out in the Alps. Interesting to read about the different foods in this region of Italy. Our Italian is not great but we always manage in these more local spots.

  10. To be honest, I have never heard of Aosta, before. Knowing the region where it is, it has to be beautiful. And it is evident in your pictures. I’m adding this to the list of places to visit in Italy.

  11. Beautiful, would love to hike in this region but doubt I could get Spanky to do it (she’s not a hiker). Your description makes it sound more like Switzerland then Italy. And the mountains actually remind me of Lauterbrunnen – which I see on the map is (straight line) less than 100km away from Aosta.
    Amazing how all the communities in the valleys of these mountains have their unique food and language thanks to their isolation.

      1. Thanks for your reply, I was afraid that might be so. Plan to be in Valle de Aosta for 5 days in December. Suggestions for accommodation, eats, walks, etc much appreciated.

  12. Great info, thanks so much. A question..
    is the Fontina really vegetarian, i.e. no animal rennet used,?

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