Brussels holds a special place in our heart because it was our first trip abroad together in 1987. Since then, we have returned to Brussels and Belgium several times – to visit museums, to enjoy chocolate and Belgian fries, to admire Art Nouveau architecture by Victor Horta and spend time in Belgian pubs. And over the years we have also visited a number of sites connected with the adventures of the Comic hero Tintin, among them the Tintin museum in Louvaine-la-Neuve, the Brussels Comic Museum and of course the Tintin merch shop. In this post we take you along on our Tintin travels in Belgium.
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Who is Tintin?
Tintin is a young reporter who is travelling around the world with his dog Snowy in numerous comic books. The Adventures of Tintin first appeared in 1929 as a weekly serial comic strip in a Belgian Newspaper. Their creator, Georges Remi, soon became famous for his comic characters and went by the name of Hergé (the initials of his name read with a French pronunciation). Since the Adventures of Tintin were so popular, Hergé published them in individual collections. In total, Hergé drew about two dozen Tintin adventures until his death in 1983. Reading and dreaming the stories of Tintin was part of our childhood. In German, though, Tintin’s name is Tim, instead, and his dog Snowy is called Struppi. In the original French version, the dog is called Milou …
Tintin in Brussels
For many Belgians, it seems, Tintin is a near-real fellow citizen as he is perhaps the internationally most famous Belgian! At Brussels Airport, for instance, stands a curious red-and-white chequered rocket. The rocket is part of Tintin’s adventure on the moon – which Hergé wrote as early as 1952! And near Bruxelles Midi train station, the images of Tintin and Snowy greet visitors from the top of a building. This used to be the location of Hergé’s publisher, Le Lombard.
The Hergé Museum in Louvaine-la-Neuve
There also is a whole Tintin museum dedicated to the reporter, his dog and a bunch of other characters from the comics. The Hergé Museum, however, is not in Brussels, but in the nearby town of Louvain-la-Neuve. On our recent trip to Belgium we finally managed a visit to the Hergé Museum. True to its official name, the museum in Louvain-la-Neuve presents the whole work of Hergé.
Apart from a few different comic strips evolving around some different casts of characters, Hergé also worked in advertising for a while. And later in life, he had an interest in art and design and was a collector of contemporary art. However, for the most part the huge purpose-built structure is a Tintin Museum.
As ardent Tintin fans, we had decided to dedicate a whole day to Louvain-la-Neuve and the Tintin/Hergé Museum. And rightly so: The Tintin Exhibition is big enough to spend four or five hours! From an introduction to the early years of Hergé working as an illustrator for commercial ads, we move on to the first comic strips, which he drew in the 1920s. There are some stories about Totor, a Belgian boy scout who looks a bit like Tintin but more stocky and less charming. And two small boys called Quick and Flupke. They are mischievous rascals roaming the streets of Brussels, and their stories are still in print.
Exploring the world of Tintin at the Hergé Museum
Beyond that, in the Tintin museum, it is all about the young reporter and the cast of characters that make up the world of Tintin. We marvel at the original drawings from the Adventures of Tintin, including sketches and preliminary drawings. Next to them, there are often photographs and newspaper clippings which Hergé used to draw all those fine details: Ships, motorcycles, aircraft. Even in the first few stories, when he was still inventing the narrative on the go during the newspaper serialisation, Hergé would pay great attention to such details.
And from 1934 onwards, when he wrote the “Blue Lotus” story set in China, this focus on accuracy would take on otaku qualities. After meeting with a Chinese exchange student, Hergé took also care to research the social and political conditions of the country his story was set in. He continued to do so for all the exotic locations he sent his fictional character travelling to.
Friends in the Tintin Museum
The Tintin Museum also introduces the various friends and villains of the Tintin universe in several showrooms. As the body of Tintin works grew, characters from the comic books became a fixture in the stories. Readers can thus look forward to meeting beloved characters again: Captain Haddock, for instance. The pipe-smoking and hard-drinking mariner stands out for his colourful use of insults. They range from “Jellyfish” and “Pickled Herring” to “Miserable Molecule of Mildew”. After all, Hergé was writing the stories for a catholic newspaper’s children’s supplement – real swear words would not have been appropriate. And then there’s the eccentric Diva Bianca Castafiore. Or the almost identical Secret Police Officers Thomson and Thompson who often add an element of slapstick to the stories.
We brought our Snowy to the museum’s well-stocked shop to meet his newer siblings, and we found postcards showing old cover images of the Tintin Adventures
The Tintin family
The Tintin Museum also introduces the various friends and villains of the Tintin universe in several showrooms. As the body of Tintin works grew, characters from the comic books became a fixture in the stories. Readers can thus look forward to meeting beloved characters again: Captain Haddock, for instance. The pipe-smoking and hard-drinking mariner stands out for his colourful use of insults. They range from “Jellyfish” and “Pickled Herring” to “Miserable Molecule of Mildew”. After all, Hergé was writing the stories for a catholic newspaper’s children’s supplement – real swear words would not have been appropriate. And then there’s the eccentric Diva Bianca Castafiore. Or the almost identical Secret Police Officers Thomson and Thompson who often add an element of slapstick to the stories.
We brought our Snowy to the museum’s well-stocked shop to meet his newer siblings, and we found postcards showing old cover images of the Tintin Adventures.
What else to see in Louvain-la-Neuve
Although one could easily spend the whole day in the Hergé Museum (as we did) there are some other sights to explore in town. Louvaine-la-Neuve is about 30 km southeast of Brussels. It is a university town only built in the 1970s, when after religious conflicts between Catholics and Protestants at the nearby University of Leuven, the catholic staff and students packed up and moved to this new site. Louvain-la-Neuve thus now houses the complete catholic part of the historic Leuven University. It has a rich student pub scene and an interesting 1970s modernist architecture. Recently, in keeping with the Hergé Museum, they have also promoted street art in public spaces. We took some nice pictures in town and had a good evening in one of the pubs.
Tintin immersive experience in Brussels
Just at the time we were in Belgium, an Immersive Tintin Experience was running in Brussels. So, we leaped at the chance to indulge in Tintin adventures a bit more. The Tintin Experience was inside the Tour & Taxis quarter, a business district on the grounds of a former customs facility near the river.
Again, we get a short introduction to the comic characters of the Tintin series. And then a 30-minute show of larger-than-life images from the Tintin Adventures. They are synchronized to cover all the walls in a large room, and the visitors are sitting in the middle of the light show. Together with Tintin and Snowy, Captain Haddock, and Thompson and Thomson, we delve into the sea and witness the chequered rocket land on the moon. Visiting the show was not as immersive as we had hoped for, but it was very entertaining.
More comic art and more Tintin in Brussels
Since Tintin is not the only comic book character originating in Belgium, or in Brussels, for that matter, there is much more to explore for fans of comic art. The Comic Museum in Brussels of course has a large section on the Adventures of Tintin. But it also gives a good overview of other comic artists working in Belgium, such as André Franquin and Philippe Geluck.
During our first visit in Brussels in 1987 we visited a statue of Tintin and Snowy at the Wolvendael Park in the outskirts of the Belgian capital. It had been erected in 1976 on the occasion of the 30th anniversary of the Tintin magazine. Currently the statue is in the Centre Culturel d’Uccle (Uccle Cultural Centre), also in Brussels.
Quite in line with the local importance of comic art, the City of Brussels has supported a series of large-scale street murals dedicated to comic art. During one of our travels to Brussels, we got a map outlining a self-guided city tour visiting all the comic artist street art! Apart from the obligatory Tintin mural, we particularly liked the characters Kinky and Cozy, by Nix. The little twin girls cause mayhem and slapstick wherever they go. Very dark and very funny.
And mind you, the comic art and Tintin-mania are not limited to Brussels and Louvain-la-Neuve. All of Belgium seems to be full of comic lovers, and of references to comic art. In the respectable MAS museum in Antwerp with its historic and modern art collections, we came across Tintin, too!
How to get to the Hergé Museum in Louvaine-la-Neuve from Brussels
It takes about one hour to Louvian-la-Neuve from any of the Brussels train stations (Bruxelles Midi/Brussels Zuid is the biggest). Intercity and local trains run to Ottignie where you have to change for a slow train. The Hergé Museum is an easy walk from the train station.
Books for further reading
Michael Farr: Tintin, the Complete Companion.
We bought this book at the Hergé Museum in Louvaine-la-Neuve and enjoyed it tremendously. It explores the background stories of every Tintin adventure in detail. And we started reading the comic books again in chronological order.
Pierre Assouline: Hergé, the man who created Tintin.
A very well researched biography about Charles Remy, the creator of Tintin.
Some other comic characters we discovered in Belgium recently
The 8-year old twins drive everyone crazy: Clever, snarky, dark and sometimes bizarre.
Le Chat is an obese, adult, human-sized cat who typically wears a suit. That says it all.
We were not sponsored to write this post and paid all expenses ourselves.
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I’m a huge fan of Tintin and I really enjoyed your post about the Tintin museum in Belgium. You have captured the spirit and the charm of the comic books and their creator, Herge. I visited it a couple of decades but don’t mind going back there again, when I visit Belgium next. Thanks for this wonderful article! You have stirred up some memories 😊
What a journey into nostalgia and storytelling. I am excited to know more about Tintin and his adventure. I hope you write more about this famous comic hero.
I was a huge fan of Tintin my teens, and I still have the key rings and pencil cases to prove it! I would totally go and visit this museum if and when I travel to Belgium
We would certainly have planned to visit Belgium for beer and chocolate. But would not have thought to visit the Tintin Museum. It was interesting to read more about this character and his travels with his dog. Although I am not sure I would be captivated for such a long time. Or to really indulge in the Tintin Experience. But great for fans of Tintin!
It’s fantastic to read about your visit to the Tintin Museum! I’ve always been a fan of Tintin’s adventures. The way you’ve detailed the exhibits and the museum atmosphere makes me feel like I’m there with you. Your photographs are stunning and add so much to the storytelling.
What a neat museum to explore. I was not familiar with this one, and it is cool to check out something so unique. This is such a cool place!
I think Tintin unites all us across the world. I loved his adventures. I really would like to visit this museum someday. The museum looks really bright and peppy from your pictures. For now, I am going to revisit his books again.
Dear Ambica, you would love the Tintin museum, if you liked the books. I am reading them again in order of their publication date. Great fun!
The first time I encountered Tintin was on my first trip to Brussels, years ago. The comic books didn’t reach my country as I was growing up so I didn’t get a chance to follow his adventures whilst I was a child. I still remember that large mural with the painted staircase, near the comic museum in Bruseels. The Hergé Museum sounds like a great place to go if you want to learn more about the creator of Tintin and his other works. It’s interesting to see how the character grew, and how different other characters became permanent in the books as time passed by and the success of the series grew.
Dear Joanna, yes, I have heard from friends who grew up in Eastern Germany that they did not know the Tintin stories as children. But Eastern Europe also has such a great anime and comic tradition!
I am a fan of Tintin and I have truly enjoyed our visit to the Herge Museum. It’s a wonderful experience and worthy to become a “core memory” because it’s big and there is so much to see — Highly recommended!
By the way, I am really familiar with Nix: Kinky and Cosy but will check them out.
Dear Clarice, Kinky and Cosy are fun – a bit dark, more for adults than for children, I would say.
Ha! I love that Tintin is the most famous Belgian. I’ve never heard of him before. The area of Louvaine-la-Neuve seems like a great one to visit, and this museum brings a smile – which is part of what travel is about. How fun!
Dear Jennifer, I guess the comics are famous in Europe. Everybody my age grew up with them.
I don’t remember reading any Tintin comics however the character itself with his dog looks so familiar that I long to recall where I first saw it. However years later, when I visited Brussels I recognized the city had references and Tintin drawings or simply cut-outs caught my eye in different places of the city. I of course came across the merchandise shop you mentioned. I would have liked to go to the Immersive Adventure just to get an impression. The Hergé Museum as well sounds like a great half day spend to get to know more about the creator and Tintin’s adventures.
Thank you for sharing your Tintin travels in Belgium! The Hergé Museum in Louvaine-la-Neuve sounds fascinating, providing a comprehensive look into Tintin’s world. The immersive experience in Brussels and the inclusion of other comic art add depth to the journey. Belgium’s celebration of comic culture, evident in street murals and museum encounters, paints a vivid picture. Your guide on reaching the Hergé Museum is practical for future visitors. Overall, your post is a delightful exploration for Tintin enthusiasts planning their Belgian adventure.