Exploring the Dublin Docklands – Delving deep into Irish history

Exploring the Dublin Docklands reveals more than just a modern urban landscape. This area along Dublin’s River Liffey holds a woeful history from the 19th century. During the devastating Irish Famine, many thousands of starving Irish people left Dublin on ships sailing from the Dublin Docklands. Today, the industrial character of the Dublin Docklands gives way to a spirit of remembrance. But it is also a place where the proud heritage of the Irish, who ventured forth into the world from these very docks, is palpable amidst the modernity of the Dublin skyline.

We take you on a day-long exploration of the Dublin Docklands during our winter escapade to the Irish capital. In this blog post, discover what awaits: from stimulating museums to sleek modern architecture and thought-provoking sculptures (and some Irish scones……)

The History of the Dublin Docklands

During the 18^th century the area was the heart of Dublin’s maritime trade and ships laden with exotic goods from around the world arrived here. The Custom House, built in 1791, serves as a reminder of this bustling era. It stretches for 114 meters along the Liffey Quay. We were lucky and could take some pictures with rowing boats in front of the Custom House.

The arrival of the railway and new and larger ships brought even more trade to Dublin and Ireland, before the Dublin Docklands faced decline during the 20^th century. This was due to changes in shipping practice and the impact of economic downturns. It is only recently that the docklands got revamped with some modern architecture and cultural facilities.

The Irish Famine monument

Along the river, several tall travellers seem to be walking towards the Dublin Docklands. They look gaunt and exhausted and a bit eerie. They are bronze sculptures, conjuring up the emigrants of former times. These figures of the Irish Famine Monument lead the way to the Irish Emigration Museum (EPIC) by the river.

According to most estimates, 1 million people out of a population of 8,5 million died during the Irish Potato famine (1845-1851), while another million emigrated to other countries.

The haunting sculptures are works by the renowned Irish artist Rowan Gilepsie. The hollowed faces and outstretched hands of the life-sized emaciated men, women, and children capture the desperation of the people and the time very well. We are deeply moved, and taking photos here feels oddly voyeuristic.

The Irish Potato Famine

Potatoes are a strange crop: Although they are not native to Europe, they had transformed agriculture in many European countries within decades of their official promotion as staple crops. First introduced in the 16^th century as exotic novelties, farmers regarded them with suspicion. But in the 18th century, when some other crops failed, several European governments campaigned for widespread farming of potatoes. And, surprise, the humble foreign tuber could easily feed the peasant populations of, say, Prussia and Ireland. In Ireland, the potato soon became the main food source for most of the poor population. Historians estimate that around the 1850s, about half of the Irish population relied on potatoes for sustenance! Many poorer people subsisted solely on potatoes and some dairy products. A fascinating statistic (if not really a fun fact): The average man consumed a staggering 29 potatoes daily.

And then the potato blight hit. A crop disease that affected potatoes and tomatoes. Beginning in 1845, three consecutive harvest failures plunged the nation into famine. While the potato blight did hit other countries like Belgium, France, and Germany too, their governments reacted more effectively, stockpiling grains and providing food for the impoverished. Conversely, the English government appeared indifferent to Ireland’s plight. In fact, some officials likely viewed the famine as a “God-sent punishment” for what they perceived as Ireland’s excessive population growth.

Running late for our tour on the Jeannie Johnston ship

It’s not until five past ten that we realize the time printed on our entrance ticket for the Jeannie Johnston ship isn’t just a time slot—it’s the actual starting time for the guided tour. But luckily the tour has barely started, and we did not miss more than the introduction. There are only four other people on our tour, where Lucy, our guide, proves both knowledgeable and entertaining despite claiming to be new to the role.

This Jeannie Johnston vessel is a faithful reconstruction of its predecessor that sank in 1858. It was one of the ships used by the less fortunate to seek a new life in Canada, though its story is not quite typical.

Ships like the Jeannie Johnston were originally designed as cargo vessels. They sailed across the Atlantic, laden with goods and timber from America, only to return empty (it seems there was not much from Ireland that caught the interest of the Americans). However, during the big famine, these ships found a new purpose on their return journeys. They began to transport Irish immigrants back to North America, often cramming around 300 individuals into the limited space. These cargo ships, on which people fled from hunger and hardship, are also known as “coffinships” due to their high mortality rate of 25-30%.

Exploring the Jeannie Johnston emigrants’ ship in the Dublin Docklands

The Jeannie Johnston, despite its small size and limited capacity, was unique among its counterparts. It is the only ship where no one perished during its voyages – a testament to the humane practices of its owner. He employed a doctor onboard who volunteered his services without seeking higher pay elsewhere. Before departure, passengers underwent thorough check-ups to ensure no one with infectious diseases came aboard. The passengers were required to spend an hour on deck each day. Everyone on the ship also got regular food rations which they could cook on deck themselves.

In the belly of the ship, tables and beds have been meticulously recreated, with figures representing real individuals documented from the Jeannie Johnston’s history. One figure depicts a woman cradling a baby born on the ship – this way the passage was cheaper for her although it had been obvious that she was pregnant while boarding! Another puppet shows a woman who placed advertisements in Canada searching for her husband, who had sailed on the same ship a few years earlier. There are also two children travelling alone, quite common during this time.

EPIC – the Irish Emigration Museum in the Dublin Docklands

Exploring the Dublin Docklands, we made our next stop at the Irish Emigration Museum (EPIC), which former Irish President Mary Robinson officially opened in May 2016 with the aim of bringing the tales of Ireland’s diaspora to life. We had read a lot about the museum and were filled with anticipation for the exhibition.

The museum sits in huge old storage halls bordering the river, and mostly underground. Those vaults were used to store tobacco, and rigidly sealed off while they were in use. Not many people would be allowed into a customs area. For a while, the old underground storage rooms would sometimes feature in films but had no real use. And then the EPIC Museum moved in.

Upon entering the ground floor, a bright and spacious main hall welcomes visitors. And there are restaurants and cafés for a quick bite, too. At the museum reception, you collect an audio guide and a museum passport, to stamp at every stage of the exhibition. However, we opted to forego both items fairly swiftly, as we found the audio guide to be lacking in depth and the stamping procedure childish.

Exploring the EPIC Museum

Downstairs in the vaults, the exhibition moves on from the Great Famine and the reasons to leave Ireland, to the specifics of the journey. We read some letters by emigrant farmers back to their families in Ireland, with recommendations what to bring if they were to emigrate themselves.

As we delve deeper into the museum’s exhibits, the focus shifts towards the experiences of the Irish in their adopted countries. We learn about celebrities, politicians, sportsmen and music stars who all had their roots in Ireland. Many of these persons, whom we had previously considered natives of their respective countries, actually hailed from Ireland or had Irish ancestry. On the other hand, some others simply had one or the other grandparent coming from Ireland. As visitors from Germany, we couldn’t help but notice the absence of famous Germans with Irish origins. Fair enough. Nobody would have emigrated to Germany at that time. Poor German peasants were also trying to flee the hunger and emigrating to the new world.

We also enjoyed the lively Irish music playing in some of the exhibition rooms. One particularly fun feature were the numbered footprints on the floor, which offered a delightful way to learn a few steps of Irish dance.

Exploring the Dublin Docklands on foot to see some modern architecture

Today there is not only history but also modern architecture to explore in the Dublin Docklands. Just downstream from the anchoring place of the Jeannie Johnston, the next bridge catches the eye with its modern, asymmetric design. Although it is known officially as the Samuel Beckett Bridge on maps, like many people, we refer to it as the “Calatrava Bridge”. That’s because it is so obviously a work of this famous architect. The bridge’s inclined pylon and cables bear a striking resemblance to a harp, a nod to Ireland’s musical heritage. It can swing open sideways to let ships pass on the river.

In search of the Dublin Docklands with their famed contemporary architecture, we follow the next road towards the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre. From the street, the theatre doesn’t immediately appear so impressive, and it is difficult to capture in a picture. But once we walk around the building we reach a delightful pedestrian square on the edge of an inner harbour. The Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, a creation by star architect Daniel Libeskind, is facing this square, and along with other glitzy new buildings surrounding the square it does give the impression of a chic designer quarter. The Grand Canal Docks are undoubtedly a posh new area. Yet, despite this the district seems to be still finding its footing.

With only few shops and cafés and sparse pedestrian traffic the area feels somewhat too quiet. And while we found some entertainment in observing a lively flock of seagulls, we eventually decided to return to the bustling riverfront. Later on, we discovered more statues on the opposite bank of the river and took some silly pictures. And we also had some very tasty scones during our exploration of the Dublin Docklands.

Should you explore the Dublin Docklands?

During your visit to Dublin, be sure to set aside some time to explore the Dublin Docklands. Our favorite was the guided tour aboard the Jeannie Johnston – the museum ship was decidedly one of our Dublin Highlights. Given our keen interest in contemporary architecture, the Calatrava Bridge naturally stood out as another highlight. However, we were somewhat underwhelmed by our experience at the EPIC museum. Its heavy focus on infotainment left us wishing for a more substantial conceptual exhibition.

We were not sponsored to write this blog post and paid all expenses by ourselves. However, we got free entrance tickets to some museums with our German press card.

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