The Chimgan Mountains rise a mere 80 km northeast of Uzbekistan’s capital Tashkent. They belong to the foothills of the mighty Tian Shan Mountains, a UNESCO Natural Heritage Site since 2016. And while the mountains in Uzbekistan are not as spectacular as the scenery in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, there are some nice hikes in the Chimgan Mountains.
Introduction to hiking in the Chimgan Mountains
The trails in the Chimgan Mountains meander through alpine meadows, dense forests, and rocky slopes, suitable for all levels of hikers. In spring the landscape is dotted with vibrant wildflowers, while the summers are very hot and dry. If you hike in summer the steep mountain paths are quite sandy and loose. A good season for hiking is autumn, but don’t expect a lot of autumn foliage in the Chimgan Mountains.
During several research trips for our Uzbekistan guidebook we checked out several hikes in the Chimgan Mountains and this blog post will introduce you to three of our favourite ones. All the hikes are doable as self-guided hikes if you are up for a little bit of adventure. For some of them, it is better to stay in the area for a night. The hike in the Sukok Nature Reserve is possible as a day trip from Tashkent.
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A hike to the prehistoric petroglyphs at Beldersoy
This is the most strenuous and the most exciting of the three hikes we describe in this blog post. It will lead you high up into the Chimgan Mountains of Uzbekistan to some ancient petroglyphs. Petroglyphs are symbols, animals, and sometimes gods carved into stone at a time people when did not have a script to write down their beliefs. The Chimgan petroglyphs sit at an altitude of 2450 m and feature two rather large rocks with ibex carvings.
The petroglyph hike starts at the chairlift (bolshoi kanatka) in Beldersoy. It is a 16 km (return) hike up into the mountains, with an altitude difference of well over 1000 m. You can use the old Soviet chairlift instead of hiking up (if it is running); but then you will have to climb down again a few hundred meters. From the turn-off you follow a path along the mountain shoulder until reaching a ridge. Following the ridge you have good views over the Great Chimgan Mountain.
After a while you pass a smaller rock with a deer carving (which we marked on Openstreetmap). Finally, a more visible path leads down to the next valley. At this point you turn left, up another ridge, to find the larger boulder with the ibex carvings (on Openstreetmap). The easiest way to go back is on the same track as you came. If it is not too early in spring and the rivers don’t carry too much water, you can also take another route fording the Beldersoy River. You will hike over a small mountain pass back to Beldersoy Village.
You will need proper equipment for this hike, such as high mountain boots and walking sticks. The hike requires a long whole day, or two if you hike at a more leisurely pace. Spectacular views and an adventure await as your reward.
Uzbekistan and Central Asia are a great place to look for petroglyphs. Usually, the petroglyphs are very well preserved. However, it is quite often challenging to reach them in the first place. Apart from Uzbekistan, we have visited ancient petroglyphs in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan as well.
How to get to the Chimgan petroglyphs
From the capital Tashkent you can take a shared taxi to either Chimgan or Beldersoy. Transport usually starts from Qoyliq Bazar (Metro Station 7-Bekat). From Tashkent Traktor Zavot there might also be minibuses going to Gazalkent (ask at your hotel for the current situation). To reach the Beldersoy chairlift negotiate with one of the taxi drivers in the area.
Hiking Gulkam Gorge – a wild river walk
Nestled near the village of Yangikurgan, the Gulkam Gorge offers a wet adventure for those seeking a wild river walk. The 5-kilometer hike takes about 2 hours return and you should be sure-footed and comfortable with walking in knee-level water.
We stayed overnight at a basic campsite near the entrance of the Gulkam Gorge to get an early start. At the campsite we rented a simple tapchan (basically an elevated platform) with some mattresses, blankets, and cushions. The overnight fee also includes rental cooking equipment – some plates, cutlery, and a basic wood stove. To our surprise, the staff would also do the dishes! Be prepared that there is only a very basic outhouse toilet and no shower facilities. It is best to bring you own sleeping bag.
The hike into the heart of the Gulkam Gorge is a highlight in the Chimgan area. Following the blue arrows on rocks and always accompanied by the river, the trail led us through a picturesque valley with some wildflowers and tree-lined ledges. Crossing the stream multiple times, the adventure intensified towards the end of the valley, where the water often rose to knee level, delivering a refreshing Kneipp-like experience.
Ropes strategically placed at the trail’s end facilitated some light rock climbing. Tackling some slippery rock walls we finally got to the actual waterfall. Along the way we met cheerful Uzbek families, a student hiking club with huge backpacks, and a group of youngsters who had embarked on the hike in flip-flops. While May and June might be too risky due to excessive water, the gorge comes alive in July and August, offering a breathtaking spectacle of nature. While the hike to the Gulkam Gorge is definitely challenging, it is also doable for most average fit persons.
How to get to the Gulkam Gorge hike
From Yangikurgan at the Southern end of the Charvak reservoir, a small unpaved road leads to the campsite and a small parking area. Take a taxi or any form of shared transport from Gazalkent or Charvak to Yangikurgan.
A hike through pristine forests in the Sukok Nature Reserve
The Sukok Nature Reserve is located near the small town of Parkent, where we have also visited one of the two solar furnaces worldwide. We highly recommend combining your visit to the Sukok Nature Reserve with the incredible Parkent solar furnace.
The Sukok Forest is a place to meet local Uzbek families on weekends rather than a serious hiking area. However, with a size of 1600 ha it offers enough hiking paths to keep you busy for a day. Staying in the reserve overnight is possible, but you will have to get a permit from the rangers at the entrance.
At the entrance you will also find a map with some hiking suggestions. We did the hike to the waterfall that took around 2 hours. From the main path, we turned left and walked past a few picknick spots to follow the ridge of some low mountains. Near the end of the side valley, we reached a small cave and then turned, to go back on the opposite slope of the valley. Eventually we joined the main path again and followed it until the waterfall. Even in summer, there was a nice amount of water coming down. A few of the Uzbek visitors also scrambled up to the top of the waterfall, about 5 meters.
Altogether the waterfall hike in the Sukok Nature Reserve is about 6,5 kilometers long with 300 m elevation.
How to get to the Sukok Nature Reserve
From the small town of Parkent take a minibus, taxi, or shared transport to Sukok village (12 km). From the junction at the mosque, where the minibuses stop, it is about 1 km walking distance to the entrance of the Sukok Nature Reserve. There is a small entrance fee to pay at the gate.
Should you go for hikes in the Chimgan Mountains?
If you have only limited time to travel in Uzbekistan and it is your first time in the country, we recommend that you spend it mainly in the Silk Road towns: Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. Your Uzbekistan experience would lack important elements without their unique oriental atmosphere. That said, it would not do Uzbekistan justice to reduce the country to picturesque desert towns with old minarets and domes. The country also has modern cities brimming with life, like Tashkent and Navoi, and fantastic archaeological finds from quite diverse periods. We love the Buddhist historical sites in Termez, for instance, and the mysterious Qalas of Karakalpakstan. And besides that, Uzbekistan also has great nature. Hikes in the Chimgan Mountains are a relatively convenient option to experience that nature without the need for planning a proper expedition.
A good company to arrange guided hikes in the Chimgan area is Nuratau Travel.
Nuratau Travel provided a guide for some of the hikes described in this post. However writing this post was not part of the agreement. Opinions are our own.
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I must admit that Uzbekistan really is not on our travel radar. And this hike in the Chimgan Mountains while looking fascinating might not be something we could plan to do. Although visiting in the spring when the vibrant wildflowers were in bloom might tempt me. I have always been fascinated by petroglyphs. And the history behind this interesting way to tell stories. But we might look for our history more in the Silk Road towns.
Dear Linda, petroglyphes are fascinating. You are right. And there are so many of them in Central Asia to explore. Unfortunately most of the are situated in quite remote areas and are not easily accesible.
What a neat hike! So many interesting spots for scenery, and fascinating to see old petroglyphs. There are some great challenges on that hike too.
Dear Marysa, yes for the petroglyphes hike you should be in good physical shape. But as we wrote, this is the most difficult one of the three hikes in the Chimgan mountains, we are introducing in this post. Even if you are not a hiker, you can easily do the hike in the Sukok forrest.
It’s interesting to read about these places on your website as I don’t think I’ll ever visit. The hikes here look challenging (to a beginner like me) but for experienced hikers, I’m sure this was an exhilarating experience. The views are incredible and I’m glad I get to enjoy them vicariously!
Your adventure in the Chimgan Mountains brings these hidden gems of Uzbekistan to life! The hike to Beldersoy’s ancient petroglyphs and the thrilling journey through Gulkam Gorge seems fantastic. Climbing to see ancient ibex carvings and navigating river walks add a dash of Indiana Jones to the experience. I’m impressed by your adventures!
It shocked me to see locals hiking in their flip-flops, like when we went to Wae Rebo Village in Flores, Indonesia. I agree with you that the hike to see the petroglyph in Beldersoy is the most fascinating one compared to the other two. The view from the trails looks beautiful and I would take that chairlift to save time. Haha. The Gulkam Gorge hike looks interesting, but I hate walking in wet shoes.
Dear Umiko, we were happy to see the locals explore their own country.
I was supposed to travel to Uzbekistan last year, but the plans unfortunately fell through. I always like to include a little bit of hiking when I travel, and Chimgan Mountains seem to offer some wonderful options. How cold was the river, on the second hike? I couldn’t imagine hiking in water, for two hours. The first hike looks like what I would most likely go for, probably stretched over two days. 16 kilometers with an 1000 meters elevation is a lot for only one day.
Dear Joanna, the water was quite cold. But the ouside temperature was around 30 Degrees. And the hike did not lead through the water the whole time. There were land stretches in between.
Good to know that Chimgen mountains are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its also close to Tashkent. Also good to know that the trails here are suitable for all levels of hikers. You got me at ancient petroglyphs; when I visit here, I’ll definitely want to go on this hike to see the ancient petroglyphs. Ooooh, it requires 2 days to leisurely hike this? Is wild camping allowed here or are they camping grounds on the mountain? The Ibex carvings are just awesome. I really want to see it myself!
Dear Bushavali. Wild camping is allowed. But in Uzbekistan you will need a registration from a tour operator or a hotel for every night you stay in the country. So, if you hike with an official guide, he will provide the registration and you can camp in the mountains.
I haven’t explored Central Asia at all, considering it’s just a stone’s throw from India! I would love to see the petroglyphs and go in the chairlift. But for the rock climbing, I would have to up my fitness quotient. I am also bookmarking Sukok Forest Reserve, besides the cities in Uzbekistan.
Dear Ambica, the Sukok nature reserve is a wonderful place to get in touch with the locals. Definitely try to go on a weekend!
Great blog post with challenging hikes! Uzbekistan is not in our travel plans. But the waterfalls and petroglyphs tempt me to go there. I may take the chairlift to go up and then do the hike downwards. The views look awesome. 16 kilometers of hiking with a big elevation change of 1000 m is definitely challenging! Hiking Gulkam Gorge hike looks even harder wading through water. Sukok Nature Reserve looks interesting. 🙂
Those are great hikes! I personally would love to see those old petroglyphs.
We really don’t have plans to travel here for now but will surely consider getting a guide should we have a chance to visit the Chimgan area. Thank you for your recommendation.
wow, the scenery is simply epic and what a wonderful experience! Thanks a lot for sharing this and I would love to visit there and see it myself some day!
Wow, imagine trekking through the Chimgan Mountains in Uzbekistan! The vivid descriptions in your blog make me feel like I’m right there, surrounded by breathtaking scenery. Practical tips on equipment and transportation make planning seem feasible. It’s evident that Uzbekistan’s natural beauty is not to be overlooked. Thanks for sharing this inspiring piece!