Where to see Sagaribana flowers on Okinawa

On our most recent visit to Okinawa (Southern Japan) in July 2023 we finally had a chance to see the fabled tropical flowers, Sagaribana. These shy and exquisite flowers blossom only for one night in late June and early July before falling off – so the right timing is crucial. During our stay on the tropical island of Iriomote we embarked on a memorable sunrise kayak tour to see the blooming Sagaribana. In this blog post we will share our tips and experience on how to see these mesmerizing blossoms.

What are Sagaribana flowers?

Sagaribana is a “phantom flower” which blooms only when the sun goes down and falls at dawn. It is a rare flower that you will almost only encounter in Japan. And even within Japan, the Sagaribana trees grow primarily in tropical coastal swamp forests, adding to its mystique and allure.

Later, we read that the Sagaribana flower is not exclusive to Japan. Apparently, there are 56 varieties of the enigmatic flower, and some of these varieties also grow in Mozambique, Madagascar, India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan, and other countries.

Characteristically, the Sagaribana trees produce white or pale pink, downy flowers in a row around a dangling stem and the flowers emit a rather intense, sweet fragrance.

While the Japanese name Sagaribana (下がり花) means something like “falling flowers”, aptly capturing their fleeting beauty, in English, the trees with the fantastic blossoms are known as Powderpuff Trees. The scientific name, Barringtonia racemosa, refers to Daines Barrington. Barrington was an English lawyer, antiquary, and naturalist of the 18^th century who first described these flowers for a European audience.

Where and when to see Sagaribana flowers in Okinawa

The elusive Sagaribana flowers only bloom for a brief period from end of June through July, and they only bloom at night. While they are present on most of the Okinawan islands, the tropical island of Iriomote is the best-known spot for seeing them.

However, it is essential to know where to look for a Sagaribana tree beforehand. After all, it will be dark when you want to go searching for these Sagaribana flowers! We went on an early morning guided kayak tour and afterwards saw them in several other places on the islands, too.

An early morning kayak tour

It is pitch dark and pleasantly warm at 4 am in the morning on Iriomote island. We are waiting in front of our guesthouse for the minibus to pick us up for our early morning kayak tour with Iriomote Monsoon. Their Sagaribana Tour starts exceptionally early (even in comparison to other tours) and we wonder whether this is really necessary.

Finally, the minibus arrives with about five other sleepy passengers already on board. Half an hour later, our group draws the kayaks from the beach into the bay and we start paddling up a small creek. We are leaving the coastal island ring road and civilization behind us. Immediately, the small river enters dense jungle, and we find ourselves paddling in a dark tunnel. Only the light of our headlamps dances on the water.

The air smells of vanilla and frangipani

Our guide continues upriver, and at one point advises us to get off the kayaks to wade in the shallow water. He is sniffing the air. Does it smell sweet? “There!” His strong torch light reveals a bright pink flower on the water, and then another one. We all direct our lamps to the trees. Long strings of Sagaribana flowers are hanging down from one of the trees.

Finally, we catch the scent too – a sweet fragrance reminiscent of vanilla or frangipani.

Now prepared as to what we are looking for, we paddle further upriver and spot more Sagaribana trees. As daylight starts to filter into the dense forest, more and more pink flowers gently drop into the water. On our way back to the coast we take pictures of Sagaribana flowers floating on the water. We meet other guided tours now admiring the drifting blossoms. The flower heads in the trees become ever less impressive as more blossoms fall off, leaving only some buds. In hindsight, we are glad that we started our adventure at dead of night.

Where else to see Sagaribana flowers on Iriomote and Ishigaki

Iriomote is perhaps the archetypal location for Sagaribana spotting. It seems that there are quite a lot of trees dotted in the jungle of the island’s interior. We guess that you might find them along all the small rivers that run to the coast. However, there are almost no hiking trails on Iriomote. In addition, entering the nature reserve in the interior requires a special permit or a guide. During the season, many tour operators offer morning tours to see the Sagaribana, with most tours starting from Uehara on the north coast of Iriomote.

But contrary to what we initially thought, Sagaribana trees are not confined to impenetrable jungle or specific mangrove landscapes.  They don’t even seem particularly rare or difficult to grow. We have also seen a Sagaribana tree within the compound of the Iriomote Hoshino Resort and another one in Ishigaki town on a street corner. This one we recognised by its sweet smell in the morning as the last flowers were falling. It was nice to realize that these enchanting blooms can be found in more accessible places, too.

Exploring Sagaribana beyond the Yaeyama Islands

While most flower lovers flock to the Yaeyama Islands, particularly Ishigaki and Iriomote, for their Sagaribana experience, the flowers do bloom on the other islands as well. Even Okinawa Main Island with its larger population and – in some areas – industrial atmosphere, you can still find Sagaribana flowers.

Bios Hill Nature Park near the Yomitan area on Okinawa Island boasts a small grove of Sagaribana trees with a stream meandering through. In the morning visitors can still see the flowers drifting gently in the stream. However, since the park is not open in the evenings, experiencing the bloom at night is not possible. You can also visit the nearby Zakimi castle, a UNESCO World Heritage site. 

Surprisingly, we also stumbled upon blooming Sagaribana flowers on our campsite in Kitanakagusuku. Moreover, there’s a Sagaribana tree near the Shurijo Metro station on the outskirts of Naha city. And the large Sagaribana tree in the nearby Sueyoshi Park is sometimes lit up in season!

Planning your Sagaribana adventure

To catch a glimpse of the Sagaribana flowers on a guided tour, your first step is to plan your trip to Okinawa during the right season! The beautiful Sagaribana flowers bloom from the end of June to mid-July.

Booking a guided tour is the easiest and most reliable way to see the blooming Sagaribana flowers. Look for tours advertised with the word Sagaribana, readily available through outdoor tour operators across the Yaeyama Islands. We personally were quite happy with our tour organized by Monsoon on Iriomote, as we started our tour a bit earlier than most. This allowed us to enjoy the river and the flowers in peaceful solitude. Early booking is essential as the tours sell out quickly.

Alternatively, it is best to ask around upon arriving in the area for recommendations. Locals often know the best spots to see the Sagaribana flowers. During the day these trees might go unnoticed, but at night, keep your senses alert for sweet fragrances!

NB: We were not sponsored in any way to write this post and paid the full prize for the tour with Monsoon. Our recommendation comes purely from our own delightful experience.

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