Tucked away in southern Uzbekistan, Boysun is a gem of dramatic cliffs, deep canyons, and barely marked mountain trails. The region is also famous for its UNESCO-recognized Suzani embroidery and traditional textiles, blending remote nature with rich cultural heritage. In this blog post, we’ll take you on three different day hikes around Boysun – from the striking Kyzyl Canyon and prehistoric Teshik Tash Cave to the hilltop Uzundara fortress. You could do all three of them self-guided, but we would recommend taking a guide for the hike to the Teshik Tash cave, as it is largely on unmarked paths.
Hiking in Uzbekistan
While Uzbekistan is best known for its ancient oasis towns and magic Silk Road atmosphere, it also has beautiful mountains. There used to be more restrictions on exploring the countryside. But nowadays, it is quite possible to seek out challenging mountain trails or spectacular canyons. We also like to set out on foot to discover some ancient fortresses or enigmatic rock drawings, like in the Chimgan mountains.
Surkhandarya and the Boysun mountains: perfect for day hikes in Uzbekistan
Most tourists to Uzbekistan rarely venture south of the “Golden Route”, which links Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. Far beyond this well-trodden circuit lies Surkhandarya, the country’s southernmost province. Even within Uzbekistan, the region has a reputation for being unbearably hot and dusty. And indeed, we have experienced those summer days in Termez when the official weather report stops counting once the temperature has reached 45 °C – even when the mercury climbs well beyond 50 °C.
What many visitors don’t realize, however, is that Surkhandarya is also home to the dramatic Boysuntau mountain range. Towering rock walls and some incredibly deep limestone caves also belong to Surkhandarya. Some of these peaks rise close to 4000 m high, while the town of Boysun itself lies at an altitude of over 1000 m.
Thanks to this altitude, the climate here is noticeably cooler, making the region ideal for day hikes around Boysun.
A day hike in the Kyzyl Canyon
On the eastern and southern fringes of Boysun, the seemingly flat land drops abruptly into the vast Kyzyl Canyon. It is visible only from the rim and some parts of the road, and we had never noticed it before. This time, however, we had seen a photo of Skala Korabl, the “Ship Rock,” a tall rock rising straight up like the prow of a ship. On our quest to find this rock – no one we asked could tell us where it was – we set off a little east of the town, following a trail to a “viewpoint” marked on one of our maps.
Yes, there was a faint path from the road to the canyon rim. Beyond it, we discern not only a vague trail but also a possible route along sloping rock bands leading down into the valley. To reach it, we have to follow a narrow ridge of crumbling sandstone. Walking along it feels like balancing on a dragon’s spine: not exactly dangerous, but steep enough to be slightly unsettling. The path disappears at times, and we pick our way across the slabs near the top of the ridge. At the final outcrops, we fear that this is the viewpoint, and that there won’t be a path down. But behold, a short scramble leads us down into a side canyon.
From here, the hike becomes gentler. We follow a dry streambed toward the main canyon. The main river is also dry at this time of the year (September), and we follow the valley for a few pleasant hours before turning back the same way. While the stone bands above us emitted a dusty red dryness, the riverbed holds green bushes, spring blossoms, and some wildlife. Lizards darting over warm stones, a small snake, and some tiny birds. A few goats and cows wander through the valley, but we never see a herdsman. At one point a huge bearded vulture circles above the rim–an impressive and unmistakable silhouette against the sky.
Having spotted a tall rock resembling the one in our photo, but only from a distance, we try again the next morning. It turns out the Ship Rock is not far at all – it’s close to Boysun’s new bazaar and bus station, and just a few minutes’ walk from the nearest street! A spot near the rim provides a great viewpoint over the canyon and the ship rock: A perfect and very photogenic finale to one of our day hikes around Boysun.
How to organize a day hike to the Kyzyl Canyon
You can just walk to the Kyzyl Canyon from the town of Boysun, climb down into the canyon and follow the canyon for as long as you like. There are many smaller side canyons and it is easy to get lost. It is best to bring some sort of a tracking device.
5 km or more (depending on how far you walk), about 400 m difference in altitude.
Visiting the prehistoric Teshik Tash Cave on a day hike
Not far from Boysun, the scenic Derbent Canyon leads to a quiet green valley.
The Machay Valley wouldn’t be more than a pleasant spot for some hill-walking if it weren’t for an extraordinary archaeological find. In 1938, researchers uncovered the 40,000–70,000-year-old remains of a Neanderthal child in a rather unassuming cave. Surrounded by deliberately placed ibex horns, the burial proved for the first time that Neanderthals had ventured much further east than previously known. Today the Teshik-Tash Cave is a destination for adventurous hikers, though the trail trail is neither easy nor well-trodden.
For years, we have dreamed of visiting the cave but were warned that it would be difficult and require a 4×4 to reach the trailhead. This time, we go by car and have arranged a local guide, Behzod, in Machay. It has not been easy to convince him to hike with us all the way from Machay instead of taking a jeep ride further up. But here he is, waiting for us. And off we go!
From Yukari Machay (upper Machay), a narrow bridge crosses the stream towards a small mosque. Its bright-blue domes gleam against the green foothills. We don’t linger though, as our goal lies up in the hills.
A hike above Machay and down to the Teshik Tash Cave
Behind the mosque, we follow winding cow paths, gaining height quickly. Soon a jeep track cuts across the slope, but we stick to the smaller shortcuts that climb straight up. Soon, the panorama of the Machay Valley opens dramatically, with sculpted cliffs lining the opposite side.
After about an hour, the jeep track reaches a broad mountain spur with scattered fields and some grazing goats. Here we leave the car track and traverse cross-country over the bare ridge. Across a deep gorge, several caves come into view, nestled in the opposite rock wall. A path zigzags down through juniper and fruit trees, and eventually into a narrow gorge that leads to the caves.
In summer, the canyon is dry, but winter rains often rearrange the streambed, shifting boulders and erasing trails. We are lucky to be late in the season, when previous hikers have left makeshift stone steps or leaning branches, easing our ascent. Still, Natascha is glad that she brought her hiking poles.
The Teshik Tash cave actually consists of three caves. The first two are broad open shelters rather than deep caves – similar to the Bauden we have seen along the East German Malerweg. Yet there is an archaeological trench where the Neanderthal child was discovered. A bit further up, a third cave offers a true caving adventure with high ceiling with a natural skylight, and a precariously balanced boulder on the steep cave floor.
We return along the same route to Machay, completing the whole hike in just under six hours. The trek isn’t technically difficult, but it is certainly strenuous, and having a guide made navigating the canyon far easier – especially near the river and narrow passages.
How to organize a day hike to the Teshik Tash cave
The Teshik Tash hike is the only one of the three hikes where we would recommend doing with a guide. This could just be someone who is familiar with the area. Most people will tell you that you have to hire a 4×4 to get to the caves – this is not true. Be prepared that most guides will not speak any English, only Uzbek or Tajik (and maybe Russian). The hike itself is not difficult, but quite steep at places.
13 km, nearly 1000 m difference in altitude.
Hiking up to Uzundara fort – a fortress dating back to Alexander the Great
We had already explored the ancient fortresses of Kurganzol south of Boysun, and Kampirtepe near Termez. Both are believed to have been founded by Alexander the Great! For another memorable day hike in the Boysun area, we set our sights on Uzundara Fortress, a small Hellenistic-era stronghold perched above the valleys near the village of Sayrob.
Sayrob, at a first glance, seems to be an unremarkable stop along the desert road to Termez. At the heart of the village, a spring provides fresh water to the area. Some shops, outdoor eateries and a stop for very occasional buses are clustered around it. Right across from the spring stand two monumental plane trees, nearly a thousand years old. Both have hollow trunks with wooden doors; one once housed a tiny shop, the other a village school. Spending a bit of time there we quickly get drawn into a discussion about the relative merits of different types of pomegranates (to which we can’t contribute much) …
From Sayrob it’s only a short drive until we reach a wide jeep track leading towards the mountains. Presumably, a standard sedan car could follow the track for another 2 kilometres or so, and our driver offers to do so. But we choose to hike, following the track as it curves gently left and begins to climb. Along the way we encounter an adorable flock of sheep.
Reaching a small plateau, we spot a row of simple rooms – likely used by the archaeologists – and then the excavated walls to our left. Scattered pottery shards hint at the site’s long history.
The remains of the fortress of Uzundara itself sit on a broad spur dropping away on three sides. Sections of the encircling wall and the outlines of the rooms are still visible. Two deep rectangular pits stand out. One, carved into the rock, may have served as a cistern or storage space.
From this vantage point, the wide views over the surrounding hills make it easy to imagine how this small fortress once guarded the borders of an empire. Scientists believe that it was built by the Seleucid successors of Alexander the Great in the 3rd century BC
Today the site is quiet and unguarded with no frontier in sight. The tour offers a satisfying mix of history and scenery for a day hike in the Boysun area.
How to organize a day hike to the Uzundara fortress
You might find public transport from regional towns like Boysun or even Termez until the small village of Sayrob. But from there you would have to hire a taxi or hitchhike. About 7 km north of Sayrob a sign along the main road advertises the Uzundara Fortress, and this is where the track starts.
9 km with roughly 500 meters difference in altitude.
What else to do in and around Boysun
The town of Boysun has evolved from a large village to a major regional hub, yet it remains very sleepy. In the past, many Uzbeks came mainly for rest and the reputedly healthy water at the nearby Omonkhona sanatorium, often just passing through Boysun. However, the UNESCO recognition of the local music and handicrafts tradition has since put the town on the map. It brought a museum (rarely open), several hotels, and the occasional foreign tourists. Visitor numbers only rise briefly for the yearly Boysun Bahori Festival in spring.
If you have an interest in Uzbekistan’s traditional culture, Boysun is worth a visit for its handicraft, weaving, and music. At the same time, it is easy to combine cultural exploration with a rewarding and atmospheric day out. The day hikes and half-day hikes we explored offer ample scenery, and a bit of history along the way.
Where to stay in the Boysun area
This time we stayed at the Gaza Hotel at the eastern outskirts of Boysun. From there we went to see the Kyzyl Canyon. It is a simple but clean middle-class hotel with good food. For the other hikes we moved to a guesthouse in the small town of Derbent. However, we do not recommend staying there: It was overpriced, unfriendly and overall, a bad experience. With the road between Boysun and Derbent improved you could easily just stay in Boysun and do the Teshik Tash and even the Uzundara hike from there.
NB: We were not sponsored in any way to write this blog post and we paid all expenses by ourselves.
Never miss a new post! Get notifications about new posts straight into your inbox!
