The Goto Islands, off the coast of Kyushu, Japan, are a remote and rugged archipelago with a rich history. The name “Goto” translates to “five islands,” but actually more than 140 islands belong to the Goto islands. In ancient times a vital stop for China-bound ships, these subtropical volcanic islands are quite off the beaten path today. And while modern travel has made access easier, reaching the Goto Islands still requires time and planning. Over a week, we travelled from Nagasaki to Fukuoka. Along the way, we explored the five main islands of Goto. Our goal was to visit as many UNESCO-listed churches as possible. In this blog post, we share our itinerary. We also include tips for navigating the islands and highlights from our travels to the Goto Islands.
One Week Travel Itinerary: Exploring the Goto Islands
Our 7 days/6 night journey took us across five islands of the Goto Island chain. Starting with a ferry ride from Nagasaki, we began our adventure on Fukue Island, the southernmost island of the Goto group. Renting a car, we explored its scenic coastline and historical sites. We spent one night camping under the stars and two nights at the cozy Goto Jiko Guesthouse. During our stay, we also made a day trip to the nearby Hisaka Island. Hisaka Island is known for its wild nature and a Christian UNESCO church.
Next, a ferry brought us to Narushima, where we planned to stay for just one night. However, strong winds disrupted the ferry schedule, extending our visit to two nights. While unexpected, the extra time gave us a chance to fully embrace the island’s traditional charm. We stayed in a classic Japanese ryokan, visiting a shrine festival and making some new friends.
Continuing our travels on the Goto Islands by ferry, we arrived at Wakamatsu Island. By then we had 1.5 days left to explore both Wakamatsu and Nakadori. Initially, we had planned to rely on public transport. But thanks to the new friends we’d made during our extended Narushima stay, we enjoyed a private tour of these islands! This way we could maximize our short time there.
Our final night was spent in a ryokan on Nakadori island, before catching another ferry to Fukuoka.
Fukue Island: History, Churches, and Coastal Beauty
Fukue Island, the largest of the Goto Islands, is rich in history and culture. Our first stop is Dozaki Church, one of the first Catholic churches on the islands, built in 1877. Now a museum, it houses fascinating artifacts from the era when Christianity was banned in Japan. We’re intrigued by items like Buddhist sculptures of Kannon, a goddess of mercy, that Hidden Christians used as a stand-in for St. Mary. And after the visit, we treat ourselves to a snack from a vending machine dispensing tiny, home-made Madeleine cakes – how cool is that?
The Miiraku Peninsula offers another layer of Fukue’s rich story. In centuries past, Fukue was the last port of call for ships heading to China. We visit the Kukai statue, honoring the famed Buddhist monk who passed through here en route to China to study Buddhism. Kukai later founded the Shingon sect. He also initiated the 88 Temple Pilgrimage on Shikoku, a 1300 km long distance trail which we’ve walked before. Standing by the coast, we imagine the sailors and scholars preparing for the Pacific crossing, filling their water reserves and bracing for the journey ahead.
A highlight of our trip to Fukue was the Osezaki Lighthouse, perched on a rocky tip. A leisurely stroll through a camellia forest leads us there, and we spend nearly 30 minutes soaking in the scenery. We are rather fond of lighthouses and are thrilled to discover there’s a Japanese Coastguard list of the 50 best lighthouses!
In Fukue Town, we explore the Yamamoto Nizo Museum, housed in a former samurai residence. Yamamoto, renowned for his stunning illustrations of cloud formations in iconic manga and anime productions, makes us appreciate the artistry of something as simple – and as complex – as a sky.
Wild and tiny Hisaka Island
Hisaka Island, a small, remote island, has no public transport and no accommodation. Therefore, we decide to do a day trip only. We are ready for a long walk and some hitchhiking to reach the UNESCO-listed Dorin Church, our main reason for visiting. The island is tiny with only 37 square km, but the church is on the opposite side from the ferry terminal. On the ferry, we meet a Buddhist monk travelling to a fishing village in the far north for a funeral, who kindly offers us a lift.
He tells us the island’s population has dwindled to just 250 people, outnumbered by 500 wild boars. There is no school or kindergarten here anymore, and he himself lives on the larger island of Fukue, only visiting Hisaka for day trips.
After visiting Dorin Church, the church warden suggests we take a shorter mountain trail back. The only catch? We’d have to climb over a few fences, installed to keep the wild boars out of the houses and gardens …
Beyond the fences, we spot a trail that has clearly been left untended for some time – passing ruins and terraced fields. We don’t encounter any boars, but we do spend the next couple of hours battling through a lot of spider webs. The ground is churned up by the boars, and at times the trail disappears. Nevertheless, we keep going, gently shooing away hand-sized spiders (and one small snake) into the ferns and camellias.
The trail may not be well-maintained, but it’s still an enjoyable walk through nature – just the kind of adventure we love.
Narushima – a highlight of our travels on the Goto Islands
From Fukue we take another ferry to the island of Narushima, with our main goal being a visit to the UNESCO-listed Egami Church. The solitary, beautiful church building stands at a quiet bay, its remote location adding to its charm.
Originally, we planned to stay one night on the island, but strong winds and high waves cancel the ferries for the next day, extending our stay. What could have been an inconvenience turns into one of the highlights of our trip.
The extra night allows us to experience the island’s local shrine festival, which everyone had been buzzing about. It’s a bit like a smaller version of a carnival procession – think Cologne, Germany, but much more intimate – and features the throwing of mochi (sweet rice cakes). Normally, this happens from a boat, but the rough waves force a change of plans. By midday, we have caught more than enough rice cakes, met half the island’s population in the process and made a few new friends.
Demographic challenges on the Goto Islands
They take us on a tour of Narushima’s attractions: striking stone formations, prehistoric rhinoceros footprints, an art exhibition, and a stunning viewpoint. Narushima is larger than Hisaka and has a bigger population, but it faces the same demographic struggles. The largest buildings on the island are the retirement home and the only remaining school. The local children wouldn’t number enough to merit a school anymore, but the islanders take in pupils from other parts of Japan. The boarders also provide some much-needed income.
As we wander, we notice signs of an aging and shrinking population. Some houses are shuttered or overtaken by weeds, while others still show signs of life with laundry on lines or cars parked outside. Near the harbour, in an abandoned cold storage, we come across a haunting sight: a mummified cat tangled in old fishing nets.
The wild boar population is also growing. “At least they are eating the poisonous snakes”, the locals sigh.
Exploring Wakamatsu and Nakadori
When the waves calm down enough for a boat to leave, we move on to the islands of Wakamatsu and Nakadori. Both islands are connected by a bridge. Nakadori is one of the administrative centres. Since the last administrative reforms, the smaller islands have lost even their tiny public offices to the two larger islands, Fukue and Nakadori. That is one of the reasons for their decline, the locals lament.
Nakadori, however, still retains a sense of vitality. Its villages have supermarkets, traffic lights, schools, and several active churches. The historic stone church of Kashiragajima, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, inspired us to travel on the Goto Islands.
Next, we explore the enigmatic stone pagodas of Hinoshima. Some date back to the 9th century, though most were built in the 14th century. At that time the Goto mariners were deeply involved in trade – and piracy – along the coasts of Korea and China.
For lunch, we savour another bowl of the famous Goto Udon noodles. These Udon noodles are made with local flour, spring water, sea salt, and camellia oil. They are chewier than normal Udon and packed with flavour.
Our day ends with a peaceful stay in a traditional ryokan. The next morning, we board the ferry back to Fukuoka, marking the end of an unforgettable week of travels on the Goto Islands.
How to plan your travels on the Goto Islands
The Goto Islands are a chain of five main islands, all conveniently connected by ferries. But beware: Not every island has a ferry to all the neighbouring islands. Start your travels on the Goto Islands in Nagasaki, hop between islands, and finish in Fukuoka on Kyushu – or reverse the route. Strong winds are common. Build in an extra day to account for possible ferry cancellations.
Public transport on the islands is scarce, so check timetables in advance if you plan to rely on it. Renting a car offers flexibility, but cars are limited on smaller islands, so book early to secure one.
While you’re on the Goto Islands, don’t miss trying Goto Udon, the islands’ iconic chewy noodles made with local ingredients. Another must-try treat is Kankoro Mochi, a traditional snack made from sweet potatoes and rice.
Should You Visit the Goto Islands?
The Goto Islands are perfect for travellers looking to venture off the beaten path. They are not ideal for first-time visitors to Japan, especially if you don’t speak any Japanese. But they are a great choice if you’ve seen the country’s main attractions. Visit them to experience something more unique and remote.
For a blend of stunning landscapes, rich history, and local flavours, the Goto Islands are well worth adding to your itinerary.
N.B. We wrote this blog post independently and covered all expenses ourselves, without any sponsorship.
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