Visit Hegra (Madain Saleh) – a Nabataean UNESCO site in Al Ula

Nabataean tombs at Jebal al Ahmar in Hegra

The rose-red sandstone formations of Al Ula, with their mesmerizing colours and fairytale shapes, are a visual feast in the heart of the Saudi Arabian desert. But the oasis town offers much more than its stunning natural beauty. For us, the main draw to Al Ula was the opportunity to visit Hegra. Also known as Mada’in Salih, Hegra is an ancient Nabataean city.  Having marvelled at the Nabataean city of Petra many years ago, we were drawn to the idea of exploring the magnificent rock-cut tombs of Hegra. This UNESCO World Heritage Site promised an unforgettable journey through time, and it didn’t disappoint.

Read in this blog post why you should visit the Nabatean tombs in Hegra and what you will see.

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Who were the Nabataeans?

Visitors at the Nabataeian "diwan" at Jabal Ithlib

The Nabataeans were ancient Arabic people who dominated the area of the Levant and the Arabian Peninsula between the 4th century BC and the 2nd century AD. They became wealthy and powerful by controlling and facilitating trade routes, particularly those that carried incense, spices, and other luxury goods between Arabia, the Mediterranean, Egypt, and Mesopotamia. Petra in today’s Jordan served as the heart of the Nabataean civilization, and archaeologists have excavated many Nabataean settlements throughout the region.

Visiting Hegra on a tour from Al Ula

View over the archaeological site of Hegra from Jabal Ithlib

An organized tour is the only way to visit Hegra and its Nabataean tombs. The site is vast, with many areas still unsurveyed and unexcavated. As a result, authorities do not permit tourists to roam freely.

Like all tours in the area, the excursion is organized by Al Ula Experience, a Saudi national tour agency. Our tour starts at 11.30 a.m. from the Winter Park Visitor Centre at Al Ula. As we board the bus, we notice the mix of fellow travellers – several small groups and couples from Germany, a few other Europeans and a half-dozen Pakistani Umrah pilgrims in Salwar Kamees and slides. Their long beards and devotional attire set them apart, but all of us share an eagerness to visit Hegra and see the famous rock-hewn tombs of the Nabataeans.

our fellow visitors inside a Nabataean tomb at Jabal al Banat

Upon reaching the entrance of the Hegra Archaeological Site, we have to switch to another bus. But before we board, staff members proffer pomegranate juice and date cookies at us, while cheerfully declaring “We have hospitality!”

A journey through time in Hegra

The bus has tinted windows – a thoughtful feature given the intense desert sunlight outside. However, out of sheer curiosity we end up pressing our noses against the glass, trying to catch a glimpse of the stunning rocky outcrops that seem to shift like sculptures carved by time itself. Occasionally, we can spot decorative carvings and holes in the mountainside.

The recorded narrative from the bus speakers about the wonderful experience at Hegra is difficult to catch in the first place. And the English version at least does not go into more detail than phrases like “journey through time”, “ancient Nabataeans”, “truly wonderful experience.” Still, the anticipation of setting foot in this historic site keeps us captivated.

Exploring Jebel Ithlib – Nabataean rituals and more hospitality

The first stop of our Hegra tour is Jebel Ithlib. This mountain is famous for a small passageway between steep rock faces, leading to a small canyon. Artists have decorated the passageway on both sides with niches, which once held images of Nabataean gods. Some of these carvings are still visible, including depictions of eagles and other symbols of their spiritual beliefs.

The large diwan at Jabal Ithlib meeting room may have been a banquet or a meeting room of the ancient Nabataeans

At the entrance to the corridor, a large square chamber is hewn into the rock. Known as the Diwan, this space is not a tomb, but rather a Nabataean banquet room. Much like the Roman-style triclinia found in their capital of Petra, Jordan, the Nabataean used the room to dine together, reclining on benches around common tables.

What makes the Diwan even more captivating is its mystery. Archaeologists continue to debate its exact purpose. Did the Nabataeans host illustrious guests, perform rituals, or hold political discussions there? Did the common people gather outside to witness these events, or was it an exclusive space for Nabataean elites?

Visit Jabal al Banat / Qasr Al Bint in Hegra

A typical Hegra tomb at Jabal al Banat, Al Ula

Our next stop with the bus is the Jabal al Banat, also known as Qasr Al Bint. The name, meaning “Women’s Palace,” reflects the assumption that the tombs here belonged to Nabataean women. Unlike the tombs in Petra, we learn, the ones at the Hegra Archaeological site often feature inscriptions on top of their façades, detailing the tomb’s ownerships and dire curses for anyone who dares to disturb them. All the tombs share a distinctive decoration style. Whereas the tombs in Petra display various playful and baroque styles, the tombs at Hegra follow more or less the same architectural pattern. This type of tomb is therefore now called “Hegra style”, even if it is a similar structure in Petra!

Image of the local god Hombaba at one of the Nabataean tombs of Hegra / Al Ula

A defining feature of the Hegra tombs are the two sets of stairs moving from the top of the façade upward to the left and right. They are possibly symbolizing the soul’s to ascend to heaven. Then there’s one or two cornices in the style of Egyptian temples and Pylons, and below that Greek or Egyptian columns framing the door. Above the entrance, the façade often sports a tympanon and some other eclectic decoration. We see funerary urns, and eagles spreading their wings, clearly a Persian influence. In the tympanon fields there are medusa heads, or the local god Hombaba. This stylistic blend reflects the Nabataeans’ role as traders, integrating diverse cultural elements from neighbouring civilisations.

A huge Nabataean Façade: The Tomb of Lihyan, son of Kuza

The huge Nabataean tomb of Lihyan son of Kuza in Hegra

From the bus we can already spot an enormous tomb façade carved into a solitary sandstone boulder. Weathering has shaped this massive rock at its base, causing it to bulge out like an enormous pebble resting on the desert sand. But about one third of the rounded pebble shape has been sliced off to create a flat vertical rock face. This is where the Hegra style-façade towers dramatically above us. The tomb’s design features signature elements of the Hegra style: stone steps at the top, as well as several cornices and half-columns. Closer to the base, the rock surface appears less smooth. And the decoration could be a bit more luxurious, given the trouble the builders took in carving a more than 20 m high façade. Modern estimates place the work effort at about two years, even if several stone workers ceaselessly worked on the tomb.

Despite this monumental effort, the tomb remains unfinished. Lihyan, for whom it was intended, is believed to have died far from this desert marvel.

Jabal Al Ahmar: A Hidden Tomb Revealed

Nabataean tombs at Jebal al Ahmar in Hegra

The Nabataean site of Hegra spans a sprawling area. On our half day tour we can only see a small part of these amazing tombs. However, one of the clusters of tombs, Jabal Al-Ahmar, the last stop on our tour, has attained special significance in 2014. That year, heavy rains caused a sand dune to shift, uncovering a previously hidden, undisturbed tomb – a rarity in this area.

This was exciting news! All the other tombs have been found empty. They must have been robbed long ago in antiquity. Even in museums and on the private art market there are very few objects to be found from the Nabataean tombs. But in Jabal Akhmar archaeologists discovered a number of skeletons. Some were still bearing traces of textiles, and some necklaces were crafted from date kernels.

This story highlights why visiting Hegra is only possible with a guided tour. The vast desert expanse and countless rocky formations make the site challenging to monitor. And there is still the possibility of more hidden treasures waiting to be unearthed.

Exploring Al Ula: Should you visit Hegra?

Jabal al Banat at the Al Ula Nabataean site - to visit Hegra, you have to join a tour group

Hegra is not only the crown jewel of Al Ula but also one of the most significant tourist destinations in Saudi Arabia. Visiting this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a must for anyone exploring the region. However, the government tightly controls access to the Nabataean tombs in Hegra. It only allows visitors to enter via guided bus tours, which make only brief stops at a few key locations. Expect to share the experience with plenty of other visitors.

If you’re a history enthusiast, it’s worth reading up on the Nabataeans and their incredible tombs before your visit: The on-site explanations from guides may feel a bit limited. Despite these constraints, the Hegra tour is an unmissable experience that offers a fascinating glimpse into the ancient past of Saudi Arabia.

We booked several tours via the official Al Ula site and were very happy with it.

Getting to Al Ula and Hegra

Planning a trip to Al Ula? The town is well-connected to the rest of Saudi Arabia, making it relatively easy to reach. Once you are there, however, you will need a car or rely on taxis and the limited shuttle bus service to explore the area.

We rented a car in Jeddah, which gave us the freedom to move around and stick to our budget. One factor to consider is that the more affordable hotels are often on the outskirts of Al Ula. Most tours, including those to Hegra, start at the Winter Park Visitor Center, also far outside of town.

Guidebooks we used for planning and travelling in Saudi Arabia

We used the Bradt Guide to Saudi Arabia during our travels, and it was quite helpful, though some opening hours and minor details were inaccurate. This may be due to the country’s rapidly changing tourism infrastructure.

NB: We were not sponsored to write this blog post and paid the full price for the Hegra tour.

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4 Comments

  1. Hegra is an incredible place! I am in awe of the history here and how it’s still standing to this day. The tomb looks like something out of a history book. I would love to do a tour here, truly stunning.

  2. What an intriguing article about Hegra! I had no idea it was often referred to as Saudi Arabia’s “Petra.” Your detailed description of the tombs and their remarkable Nabataean carvings truly brings the place to life. It’s fascinating that the site has been so well-preserved due to its remote desert location, and I appreciate the practical tips you included, like the best times of day to visit for photography and avoiding the heat. It’s great to know, that an organized tour is the only way to visit Hegra and its Nabataean tombs. The contrast between the monumental tombs and the surrounding rugged desert must make it a surreal experience.

  3. I had not heard about this place. But I can understand the draw of the rose-red sandstone formations of Al Ula. We have visited Petra and were fascinated so would like to visit Hegra too. Good to know it is only possible with an organized tour. But I am sure the tour is worth it to really learn more on your visit.

    1. Dear Linda, unfortunately the tour guides in Al Ula are a hit and miss quite often. It is much better to read up on the topic yourself before you go there.

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