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Uzbekistan

The first time we set eyes on the spectacular cupolas of Samarkand was in the early 1990s. Together with our train tickets for the Trans-Siberian Railway we received an advertisement brochure (which did not have much to do with the train ride).  Back then, the Stan Republics were called the “Soviet Orient”, and the leaflet was full of blue domes and desert oasis towns. We were hooked!

Uzbekistan in 2004 was very different and less developed. The roads had huge potholes and the trip between Bukhara and Khiva took 10 to 12 hours. To buy dairy products or cold drinks you had to go to the main market because there were only a few shops with refrigerators. Police and officials were highly corrupt and tried to get bribes at every occasion. The accommodation options were few.

Since our first backpacking trip, we have been back to Uzbekistan numerous times for work as well as for fun. In 2015 the first edition of our Uzbekistan travel guidebook got published in German. In summer 2022 we are travelling in the country for researching the 4th edition. Altogether we have spent around 7 months travelling in Uzbekistan and are looking forward to many more visits, we hope!

ruins of Varakhsha near Bukhara
Uzbekistan

Finding Paikent and Varakhsha – two ancient Silk Road towns

by Westwards / 26 June 20159 November 2023

Over the years, our interest in the old silk road routes has brought us to quite a lot of old …

Continue reading “Finding Paikent and Varakhsha – two ancient Silk Road towns”

Gondola with tourists at the Big chairlift in Chimgan
Hiking, Uzbekistan

The Chimgan Mountains near Tashkent – a guidebook research day trip

by Westwards / 28 September 201330 April 2024

Although we had an early start in Tashkent, it is already noon by the time we arrive at the Bolshoi …

Continue reading “The Chimgan Mountains near Tashkent – a guidebook research day trip”

Tombs with ladder
Uzbekistan

The Mizdakh Khan cemetery in the Qaraqalpaq desert

by Westwards / 21 September 201310 April 2022

During our research trip for the new edition of our Uzbekistan guidebook we finally found the time to visit the …

Continue reading “The Mizdakh Khan cemetery in the Qaraqalpaq desert”

Taxi passengers buying melons at the street
Uzbekistan

Speeding across Uzbekistan

by Westwards / 7 September 20132 April 2021

During three weeks of research in Uzbkekistan we have already spent at least 50 hours in long-distance share taxis and …

Continue reading “Speeding across Uzbekistan”

Isa inspecting some pottery chards at Jarqotan
Uzbekistan

Hot days and cool conversations in Termez

by Westwards / 14 July 20132 April 2021

Termez is situated at the Afghan border. It is not quite the end of the world, but it feels close… …

Continue reading “Hot days and cool conversations in Termez”

Tomb of Timur / Gur Emir in Samarkand
UNESCO, Uzbekistan

The heirs of Timur: Timurid nationalism in Central Asia

by Westwards / 13 September 200612 April 2021

The bus moves slowly through the desert, it is too hot, and everyone is slumped drowsily in their seats. Suddenly …

Continue reading “The heirs of Timur: Timurid nationalism in Central Asia”

Manual connection of phone lines in the telecommunications office in Kokand
Travel thoughts, Uzbekistan

Blogging – an ideal communication mode for world travellers?

by Westwards / 5 September 200612 April 2021

Researchers of new information and communication technologies (ICT) who are interested in online communities usually end up in, well, offline …

Continue reading “Blogging – an ideal communication mode for world travellers?”

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Isa and Natascha in the Ayazkala Yurt Camp in Uzbekistan, researching for a travel guidebook

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