Vegetarian food in Eritrea – a guide for vegetarian travellers

When we travelled to Eritrea in 2020, we were aware that it is a rather poor country. And accordingly, we anticipated simple food – nothing extravagant, and not heavy on meat. Travelling as vegetarians, this was a welcome thought. Given Eritrea’s proximity to Ethiopia we also expected a great vegetarian tradition, and Eritrea did not disappoint. Our primary reason to visit Eritrea was sightseeing and exploring the local culture, rather than food. But to our pleasant surprise, the vegetarian food in Eritrea was tasty and easy to find, although it did lack variety sometimes. Nonetheless, it made for a satisfying culinary experience throughout our travels in the country. Read in this blog post what to expect in Eritrea as a vegetarian traveller and what we ate during our trip.

Vegetarian food in Eritrea – the Christian tradition

Much like in Ethiopia where vegetarian food is widely embraced, Eritrea also has a deep-rooted tradition of religious dietary restrictions. A significant portion of the population, possibly up to half, are Orthodox Christians – though exact numbers are vague due to political repression faced by many Christians today. Still, the rules of the Eritrean Orthodox Church stipulate a vegan diet during fasting days, which can total up to 200 days a year. During these periods of fasting, many Eritreans avoid all animal products.

Additionally, since vegan and vegetarian foodstuffs are generally more affordable than meat and dairy products, everyday dishes in Eritrea tend to be predominantly vegetarian.

Travelling in Eritrea as vegetarians

As vegetarians travelling in Eritrea, one of our biggest challenges was simply finding places that served prepared food at all. At first glance, cafés and bars seemed to be plentiful. But restaurants and food stalls were surprisingly scarce. We acquired a considerable part of our calory intake by drinking a lot of coffee with milk, and rich fruit juices. Some cafés offered sweet and savoury snacks, which became staples for us.

When we did find a restaurant, menus were scarce and usually written in Ge’ez script – a beautiful but complex writing system with around 200 letters. Deciphering it was great fun but a bit of guesswork – and we never got around to learning them sufficiently to confidently read the menu. Nevertheless, we quickly picked up the spellings for essentials like “salad” or “fatta” – lifesavers for veggie travellers like us.

Fatta – an Eritrean staple

Fatta is one of the most popular and widely enjoyed dishes in Eritrea (and in Northern Ethiopia). It consists of bread torn into small pieces, mixed with a flavourful spicy tomato sauce seasoned with the local spice blend, called Berbere.

A complete dish of Fatta comes with a variety of accompaniments. They may include salad, tomatoes, potatoes, boiled eggs, yoghurt, and whatever is available. This means that you can find a menu with numerous vegetarian options in a Fatta shop, making it an easy and delicious choice for vegetarian travellers.

Shiro – a traditionel stew

Shiro is a beloved traditional stew enjoyed in both Eritrea and Ethiopia. It consists mostly of chickpeas or broad beans. The beans provide a thick, soupy texture for the aromatic spices such as onions, garlic, and often ginger. Depending on the region, you might also find variations that include chopped tomatoes or a kick of chili peppers for extra heat.

Shiro always comes on a large Injera bread – the iconic fermented flatbread made from teff flour. The spongy texture of Injera perfectly complements the rich, flavorful sauce, soaking up all the delicious spices. Shiro is a comforting and satisfying dish for vegetarians travelling in Eritrea.

Salad

As in many places, salads are a reliable option for vegetarian food in Eritrea. While not every restaurant we visited had any fresh ingredients on hand, when we did find salads, they were usually safe to eat and satisfying.

Spaghetti and Pizza: The Italian Influence

For nearly half a century during the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries, Eritrea was an Italian colony. And this history left a lasting mark on the country’s cuisine. Therefore, it was always a safe bet for us as vegetarian travellers to ask for spaghetti with tomato sauce. This worked even in restaurants that at first didn’t seem to have any vegetarian options at all.

Pizza, too, has become a local favourite and is readily available. Even smaller bakeries and coffee shops offer quite tasty pizza slices. So, Pizza and Pasta are good to fall back on, although you will end up with a lot of carbs with these options.

Restaurant experiences in Eritrea

Most of the places we ate were simple eateries rather than full-fledged restaurants. Cafés were usually bustling, while the few formal restaurants, often on the ground floor in hotels, were almost empty. Especially the ones with table service and proper dishes rarely had any guests. So we would walk into a bare and empty room with some tables, sit down, and wait. Sometimes no one would even show up to serve us! When someone appeared, there was often no menu, so we’d look at them expectantly. And the person would then look expectantly at us. We would explain that we are vegetarians (no meat, fish, or chicken). This would cause some more blank looks, and then we might get into a conversation: “Do you have any vegetables? Can you make pasta with sauce?”

The experience was smoother in restaurants in a “traditional” style – with traditional handicraft decorations and green leaves scattered on the floor. In these places we were sure to get some shiro (see above). These spots looked like tourist restaurants, but with such a dearth of tourists, who would sustain them? They seemed at least partly set up for Eritreans living abroad. When they visit home, they probably yearn for the cooking and atmosphere of their childhood. Either way, it was nice to try some traditional food, often followed by a coffee ceremony to finish the meal.

Vegetarian food in Eritrean bakeries and cafés

Whenever we needed a break from the heat or were feeling exhausted (which was often, possibly due to a lingering cold), we relaxed in a café. Again, thanks to the Italian influence, even small towns and suburbs in Eritrea have cafés. And even the most run-down places are equipped with enormous Italian espresso machines! The coffee never disappointed – fitting for a region known as the birthplace of coffee.

In most places it was possible to get some milk with the coffee. And if we were lucky, the café also doubled as a bakery. Sweet cakes became a daily staple, along with savoury options such as pizza slices. Some cafés even offered fresh rich juices, which were a fantastic treat. Our favourite was the layered “spris” – a thick, pureed mix of avocado and banana.

Eritrea as a destination for individual travellers

Few foreigners visit Eritrea, and those who do often have specific travel goals. Many of the individual tourists we met seemed to be “country collectors” aiming to visit as many countries as possible. They generally limited their stay to Asmara, sometimes adding a trip to one additional destination before moving on. There were also a few small groups of mostly Italian tourists. In general, those were more interested in Eritrea’s historical sites and unique 20^th century architecture. These groups often venture a bit further to see visiting spots like the camel market at Keren.

Travelling independently for twelve days in the country posed a number of challenges, including language barriers, administrative requirements, and transportation logistics. We got by with English, a bit of Amharic, and some Arabic. For any destination outside the capital of Asmara we needed travel permits – which took between one and three days to acquire. Since Eritrea Tourism does not have a reliable online presence, we relied on (scarce) travel guidebooks and the enthusiastic Eritrean Embassy in Germany for information.

For overland busses we asked the hotel staff. In addition, we often walked to the bus stations in advance to gather information on schedules and tickets. Despite the hurdles, this approach allowed us to explore various areas of Eritrea, from Asmara and the highlands to the port town of Massawa situated more than 2000 m lower at the Red Sea coast. We also travelled to Keren in Northern Eritrea and to Qohaito in the Southeast, near the Ethiopian border. This allowed us to experience the country’s rich diversity along the way.

Is Eritrea a good destination for vegetarian travellers?

Yes, Eritrea can be a good destination for vegetarian travellers. While the food options may be somewhat limited, the country’s Christian traditions and fasting days mean that suitable vegetarian food in Eritrea is widely available. With a little planning, you can enjoy a variety of flavourful dishes throughout your journey.

We had already experienced many of the Eritrean vegetarian dishes during our long sightseeing trip in Ethiopia. Another country with an old Christian tradition where we enjoyed wonderful vegetarian food was Armenia.

*** We had no sponsoring for this blog post about vegetarian food in Eritrea. We paid for, and ate, all the food ourselves. ***

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